Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Welcome to our Europe 2008 Trip Journal

Welcome to our journal.

Verle & Peggy

April 24 - Waco to Frankfurt, Germany

Thursday
We left home at 8:10 a.m. with David, who took us to the airport. We took one last look at our lovely blooming tulips and gave Cole and Ian an extra hug. (They came over before school to tell us “goodbye” and to eat cinnamon toast with us.)
We had the first surprise of our vacation while waiting in Omaha for our flight to Chicago -- Jerry Fox from Kearney, Verle’s cousin’s son, came over and sat with us for a visit. He is heading to Tokyo to meet parents of students at Kearney State. About 200 Japanese students currently attend Kearney State College.
Although we had a 5 ½ hour wait to board the plane for Frankfurt, the time was comfortable and relaxing and went by quickly. We had a good visit with a young Jewish lady, Miriam from Stockholm, who is returning to Stockholm with her violin after auditioning to do Master’s work at a college in Bloomfield, Indiana. She was accepted and will be returning to live here for her schooling. We had a good discussion about Jews in WW2, and the open air and Vassa museums in Stockholm.




We boarded our Air India flight for Frankfurt without problems. The plane was less than half full. The stewardess suggested that Verle and I take two separate banks of 3 seats (which were great for sleeping.) I had curry and Verle had lamb for supper - clearly India dishes - very ample and tasty meals. I left my things in my row and went back to Verle’s row to eat with him. A lady from India put her son to sleep and laid him in my row of seats. A stewardess came to tell her that she had a whole bank of seats (bulkhead row) for her use. I felt selfish about reclaiming my row of seats, especially when the baby cried from time to time during the night. The plane left Chicago about 8 p.m.

April 25 - Frankfurt to Brussels

Friday
Both Verle and I had trouble getting to sleep last night, but we slept soundly later and were amazed when we woke up about 9:15 a.m. (Frankfurt time) to find the plane cabin full of chatting people and bright sun coming in the windows. We had a good breakfast on the plane and watched a bit of Holland and Germany through the clouds as we came in to land.
We walked within the airport to the train station and validated our Benelux/Germany Eurail pass at the train station. The ICE train left about two hours later for Brussels. As in 2001, Europeans were very helpful when we weren't sure where to go. We could only see about half of the ride to Brussels, because the train was often underground or the sides of the roadway were built up. The countryside that we did see was so green, and the European building style was enjoyable. We rode part of the way with Paul and Chris from Brazil. They are studying in Germany. Their insight into the politics of their country and ours was interesting. They are traveling to many parts of Europe. They shared a chocolate bar with us.




Catching the tram to Dan and Carrie Ritzmans was our first challenge and we had to do it twice. Dan had given us great and detailed instructions, but although we found the right ramp, we forgot to check the number on the front of the tram, and we ended up downtown. We had to ask at a computer shop to find out how to get back to North Station. We successfully reached Dan and Carrie’s home, and only had to walk three or four blocks carrying our backpacks.
Carrie had a wonderful three course meal for us -- deep fried cheese balls, salad, and wonderful whole wheat bread, a casserole, and a strawberry/pudding pie for dessert -- plus wonderful Belgian chocolates!. Everything tasted wonderful and her table was so pretty with colorful dishes.



It was very interesting learning about their work with the Iranians in Brussels. They had 25 at Bible study this week. Dan sees God doing a wonderful work in the Iranians. Many have dreams about Jesus and even dream Bible verses that they’ve never heard. They know Islam is not meeting their needs. The Inmans make unreasonable rules and change them on a whim. The Iranians are very open to the teachings of Jesus, and worship meaningfully and wholeheartedly. Their wholehearted, however, tends to promote arguments and problems between the Iranians. They, by their own admission, do not tend to forgive a sin committed against them. This leads to their field of friends becoming narrower and narrower. Faith in Christ is changing this for them. They have a house guest, Ron Frost, a single man, from the Portland area, who also joined us for supper. In his connection with Multnomah, he is a traveling supporter and encourager for missionaries in various parts of the world.
Dan gave us ideas for visiting Brussels tomorrow and took us to a lodging place for traveling missionaries run by Barry & Coreen De Vaal from South Africa. We are staying here for 30 Euros, including breakfast.

April 26 - Brussels to Brugge

Saturday
This day was frustrating in many ways, but it ended really well! Verle felt really bad and his back was sore when we woke up. He had trouble waking up and even in thinking as clearly as usual. After breakfast, he began to feel much better. Barry and Coreen had left breakfast out for us -- it was very good, with cereal, juice, tea and coffee, great bread, jelly, peanut butter, and a special chocolate spread. They also had cheese and cold cuts, which I used to make sandwiches for dinner.



Verle used their Internet hookup and was able to get my journal and some of our photos on the web page. We were relieved that it worked so well. By then, Verle was feeling O.K.
We walked with our bags to Central Station, but there was no ticket window, and we didn't know where to stowe our bags, so we took the tram to North Station and put our bags in a locker there. Then we took the tram to Boerche/Bears (wrong spelling) to see some of the sights Dan had suggested to us. However, we just had such a hard time finding where to go. We finally found a map and walked toward a neat old structure. However, we were quite confused about where to go, so we came across a city tour and took that atop an open bus. It was a gorgeous day. The driver gave us ear plugs to keep. We could set the channel to hear the English narration. It was very interesting to see the many old buildings, the World's Fair area, and the buildings that house the European Union, which are new and mirrored and modern. Some highlights were a very old church with statues and ornate decorations everywhere you looked.



Another similar building had been partially restore to it's white surface, while the rest showed that it is 700 or so years old. The Atomia, which was Belgium's exhibit in the Worlds Fair looked like a huge model of an atom made out of metal. Japanese and Chinese buildings in the same area were built by Napoleon or other early rulers. Lovely parks and spring blooming trees were very beautiful.
We bought train tickets to Brugge (4 Euros total!) and took a lovely ride with a chance to see many farms and the lovely countryside.
Here comes the mighty frustrating part. We got to Brugge about 3 and immediately went to the information center to try to find a Friends of Bicyclers home to spend the night (from our catalog). Many were listed, but we didn't know how to make phone connections to see if any of them had a room available. One information center didn't have a phone connection, another sent us to Park Hotel, which we couldn't find. All this while we were carrying our heavy bags. We finally went back to the train station to try to find someone to help us there. Nothing worked, the phone card we bought didn't work for us, and the directions weren't in English. By 6, we still hadn't been able to get through, and when we finally got the phone to work, one after another home was already full. (You are supposed to call 24 hours in advance.)
Thankfully, we finally found a home that had a room, and what a wonderful experience that turned out to be. Our hosts are Ann and Paul Neutens.




They told us which bus to take and where we should ask the driver to let us off. Ann came out to meet us there. They took us into their kitchen, served us cokes, and helped us plan our day for tomorrow. We decided to try to ride bikes with a tour in Brugge tomorrow morning and to stay in Middleburg, Holland tomorrow evening so we can start riding on Monday. Ann and Paul got everything lined up for us. They called a family for us to stay with tomorrow night in Middleburg and found out from that family that the best way to get to their home was by bus and ferry. The got all the directions and made our reservations for the bike tour tomorrow morning. They also are taking care of mailing our fee for being part of the Friends of Biking program.




They took us out to their lovely garden area, which stretches over 100 meters back behind there house. We took photos there. It was such a pleasant evening after a day that had several stressful moments in it.

April 27 - Brugge to Middleburg, Netherlands

Sunday

Some cultural observations from the last couple of days:

1. We were interested in watching the people from India on India air when we flew from Chicago to Frankfurt. Most of the passengers were from India. We don't know if the families we were watching near us were representative of their country or not, but this is what we observed: The mothers were extremely loving and relaxed with their children. They were cuddling them, telling them how much they liked them, playing little number and alphabet games with them, and in general really enjoying their children. The fathers (whichever men they were) paid no attention to the women or to the children.

2. Brussels is full of Arab women in their burkas and boring long "dresses" -- more like black nondescript sacks. Most of them looked sad -- or maybe vacant. Their men also seemed uninvolved with them. The best word to describe their appearance from our point of view was "boring."

3. The eyes of most of the local people in the trams seemed sad, and these folks often seemed to personify to us "sheep without a shepherd."

4. The traveling young people seem always to be having the time of their lives. They are using a lot of electronic equipment and are enjoying each other (and they are loud!)

After a wonderful breakfast with Ann and Paul (fresh egg from their own chicken, rolls, sweet rolls, coffee and tea, cheese) Ann walked us to the spot where we were to meet the bus. Paul came running with new water bottles for us! We all stood and waited for quite a long time for a bus that just didn't come -- probably because it is Sunday, so Ann took us back to the Brugge train station in their family car. We put our things in the locker, rode the bus to the Brugge market area, and found our bike tour. Our guide, Dan (I think) got our bikes out for us - newly purchased bikes this year. There were only 6 in our group, and almost no tourist traffic throughout the morning, so we really got a great tour. We zigzagged through the old buildings,



rode out to parks, a working Jesuit training castle, parts of the old wall, -- it was the best way we could have possibly spent our time in Brugge! We rode for almost 3 hours on the cobblestones.
We got our bus ticket to the ferry on the way to Middleburg, got our bags from the locker, and bussed across northern Belgium and southern Netherlands, Verle sat by a man who has traveled all over the world, including China, north and south Africa, etc., but he has not been to America. The countryside changes from Belgium to the Netherlands. The area has farming and dairy cows. We rode the ferry and then the bus again to get to Middleburg and Franz's home. Franz is retired and only moved into this place a couple of years ago. It's a lovely home.



Franz was extremely helpful in helping us plan our route and calling the next place at Brielle. It is about 42 miles -- very rideable if we don't have a headwind. Unfortunately, there is rain predicted for tomorrow. We met Truus and their daughter, Flemi. Flemi is a midwife and was just leaving for work. About half of her patients deliver their babies at home. Most of the city people go to the hospital where she also works. Her information about her work was fascinating. She said that Dutch women are embarrassed about nursing their babies, and few do it.
We showered and Franz walked us to some of the restaurants in the market area. We split a meal of a local flat fish, salad, and French Fries with mayonnaise. It was very good. We came back to the house and laid out our things for riding the first leg of our journey (to Brielle) tomorrow.

April 28 - Biking Middleburg to Brielle, Netherlands

Monday

We slept very well with the window open for half the night (no screens needed) When I got up to shut the window, I heard something light hit the floor, but I couldn't reach it. When we got up, Verle was missing his glasses. I remembered the sound, and we found the glasses on the floor between the two twin beds. Franz served us a wonderful and elegant breakfast of boiled egg, bread broiled with soft cheese on top, WONDERFUL breads of all sorts (I especially enjoyed the raisin bread), cheeses, and two kinds of meat, coffee and tea. His house is new inside, very nice, and comfortable.
We had worried about finding the train station since we had arrived at Franz's house following a circuitous route. Franz volunteered to walk us to the station. We left our bags at his house and he helped us rent the bikes. We got each bike for a week for 42.50 Euros. If we have them longer, we will pay the extra charge when we return them to Middleburg. When we arrived back at Franz's house, Truus had ridden in about 20 minutes by bike to tell us good-bye. They sent along candy, and I took sandwiches I'd made from the breakfast bread, cheese, and meat. We got our bags strapped onto our bikes and were on our way at about 10 a.m. Franz rode with us to show us the LF1 trail. What wonderful service these "Friends of Bikers" give us. I wish there were some way to repay them.
We had been worried about rain, but it didn't rain all day. We were also worried about the winds that usually blow off the North Sea. They were blowing, but were behinds us, so we sailed right along, especially as we went across the 6-, 3-, and 1-mile dikes. What fun! It appears that the knowledge that the prevailing winds are from the southwest worked for us this time. Verle had wanted to ride south from Amsterdam.
It was a real joy to ride through the villages and many farming areas



and to see the Delta project, which consisted of big concrete structures with movable gates that can be adjusted to keep the sea out when necessary.



We had and interesting ride through the Westensenschouwen Forest, but we were almost too tired to navigate the hills. We stopped twice to take some of our energy food, and it helped a lot. We bought a map for the LF-1 route. It is in a book at cost over $12, and covers only as far as Delft. It wasn't as helpful as we had hoped, and we still had problems staying on the trail when we couldn't find the LF-1 markers along the way. Although we were often worried about whether we were along the trail, we really didn't lose much time getting off. One of the most interesting route questions worked out very well when we were about 9 miles from Brielle. We weren't sure where LF-1 went, and Verle saw a sign for 9 miles to Brielle by bike. It wasn't the LF-1 trail, but because we didn't know which way to go on LF-1, we decided to take it. We got to Brielle very quickly, and the LF-1 rejoined us about four miles from Brielle. We followed it into town and came to our hosts' street (Reede) at the second crossroad in town. Another "Friend of Bicyclers" saw us and we chatted for awhile. She is booked up for most of the summer.
We think we rode about 50 miles, so we were very tired by the time we reached our host's home at about 8 p.m.. My seat was especially sore. We really like the railroad bikes and their 8 speeds. (We're glad we paid $5 more for the extra 5 speeds.) We ride more straight up, so our arms and hands didn't get nearly as tired as on our Treks, but it puts more weight on our seats.
We met Laney and Cor came home right after we put the bikes in their garage. Laney made coffee and we had fun visiting. They phoned and found a place for us in the Leiden Centrum area (easy to find). Their daughter, Linda, and her American husband and Florida-born Keenan and Cory came to meet us. What fun to visit! They lived in the USA until just before 9-11. Linda got very homesick, and they moved to Brielle and lived with Laney and Cor for a year and a half. __ is teaching English at a high school here. He says that the kids are as hard to discipline as in the US. He says that the bad western influences are beginning to affect the Dutch kids.
Cor showed Verle their Internet, I typed this journal so Verle could put in yesterday and today's web info, and we showered and went to bed.

April 29 - Biking Brielle to Leiden, Netherlands

Tuesday
During the night, I could tell that I was getting Verle’s cold. This was very sad news. I could tell that it was hard to climb the stairs and I felt rather weak and lightheaded. Lenie and Cor’s daughter, Yvonne, came her sons, Tom and Max. They were a bit shy and played in the upstairs toy room. Lenie served us a very ample breakfast and we again made sandwiches to picnic.



Lenie gave us a computer map of Leiden to help us find our next stop. We packed up and left shortly after 10. Lenie and Yvonne were doing something together for the day. This was a lovely, warm home, and we like the Friends of Bicyclers program more each day!
We pedaled toward the Brielle Centrum, briefly lost our way, and after asking for help, we pedaled through the countryside on a bike trail toward Delft and Leiden. It was a beautiful morning and we really enjoyed the ride. One of the most beautiful sights is the Japanese cherry blossoms. Unlike ours, they are lavendar/pink and large. They are beginning to fall, and the ground is covered with beautiful blossoms. It’s no wonder that the Japanese people like the cherry blossoms so much. I wonder if these cherry trees would grow in Nebraska???



I felt better as we rode along. We crossed the bridge connecting the third island containing Brielle, and took the ferry across the bay below Rotterdam. We saw big ships and a lot of maritime activity.



We may have missed one of the white arrow signs with red letters (that show the bike paths which are the shortest connection between towns.) Thinking we should go to the Centrum, we followed the signs there. Once there, we didn’t know how to get out to resume our journey to Leiden. A man with a map hooked to the handlebars of his bike helped us figure out the general direction toward Pinijaak, and we picked up the red on white arrows for the town in just a few blocks. Unfortunately, it started to rain fairly hard. I put a garbage bag over my backpack (I had set one out for Verle, but he didn’t get his along), and we put on our raincoats. It was chilly and unpleasant. We stopped under a highway bridge to eat the sandwiches and banana that we had brought from Lenie and Cor’s. We rode on in the rain, but I was getting quite cold, shaky, and weak. It became very hard for me to navigate in the traffic. In going around a round-about, I caught the curb with my tire and the weight of my backpack caused me to fall over onto my knee and hands. I got a bloody knee and my knee felt like it might be hurt inside. A lady stopped to help us and told us about a train that takes bikes that goes to The Hague and then to Leiden. She said it was about 24 miles yet to Leiden. We rode on, but since it was already 3:30, we decided that the train was our best option. We had to take our bikes down an elevator to the platform below. There was not a ticket office. A young couple helped Verle purchase tickets from a machine for us and our bikes to The Hague. Verle couldn’t have gotten the tickets without them.
I was cold and shaky by the time we arrived at the Hague. I stayed with the bikes while Verle purchased our tickets to Leiden and a phone card to call our host in Leiden. The tickets for the bikes cost more than the tickets for us to ride the train! We had time before our train, but the only place we could eat and sit down was at a Burger King. How we hated to eat American food when we could have been enjoying Dutch treats. We couldn’t find the outside phone booths where we were supposed to use the phone cards and it was still cold and rainy, so we just got on the train shortly before six. (We’d had to wait until then, because they won’t allow bikes on the trains between 4 and 6.)
We arrived at the Leiden train station, and after asking for help a few times, we found the police station and our host’s home around the corner from it. Her name is Gerda. She helped us park our bikes in a downstairs storage area and served us coffee and snacks. Gerda likes pop music and asked about a Nebraska singer, Bruce Springsteen and a song she thinks he wrote and sang about Nebraska. Gerda made MANY phone calls to find us a place to stay tomorrow.



Since it is a holiday, much of the country had vacation from Wednesday through the weekends, and homes just didn’t seem to available. She fortunately found us a place at last. I took a warm bath to warm up and went right to bed without writing my journal. My cold and my throat are pretty bad. We slept very well in our small bedroom.

April 30 - Biking Kuekenoff Gardens

Wednesday
This is Queen’s Day in the Netherlands. I wanted to wear my orange blouse, but it was too cold. I’ve worn the same three layers for the last several days! Greta had a nice breakfast for us, and we were on our way about 9. Greta helped us get out, gave us some instructions for finding our route, and left in her car for a meeting. Greta has a very strong accent and really wanted us to say the words with the same heavy accent!
We had a lovely ride to Lisse and on to the Keukenhoff Gardens.



We began to see lovely fields of tulips -- they are unbelievable -- big fields, but not of corn or soy beans! In one field, a tractor with a machine was cutting the tops off the vibrantly blooming tulips.



Evidently these will be sold for bulbs, and they make better bulbs if the tops are cut off. It was sad to see all the beautiful blooms laying between the rows. I’m glad we got here as soon as we did, while most of the fields still had their blooms.
We found the Keukenhoff Gardens north of Lisse. We were able to park our bikes and leave our bags in a shed with security. It was starting to rain again, so we were really glad to keep our bags dry. It rained off and on throughout the time we were at the Gardens, but, except for being quite chilly, it was a wonderful visit.



After viewing many acres of displays and an orchid pavilion, we went out the exit, only to discover that it was the back exit rather than the one we had come in. They let us back in (after we paid 40 cents to use the bathroom -- well worth it.) We discovered that we had missed a huge section of some of the most beautiful displays. We got a map from the bike security people and rode a loop around the gardens and out into the tulip fields.
We found our way to Noordwijkerhout to our hosts there. A man helped us by showing us where to go on the posted city map. We wrote it down so that we wouldn’t forget his instructions. We found the place relatively easily, and met our hosts, Joke (pronounced Yoka) and Ed. By then, we were quite cold, and I didn’t feel like going out to a restaurant, so we skipped supper.




Our hosts helped us get our next night’s reservation and printed off maps for us for our route up the west coast of the Netherlands, and brought us coffee to our room. Ed loves using the computer and was so helpful with the maps and calling to Castricum for our lodging tomorrow.
I typed up two days’ notes, Verle put it on the Internet via Ed’s computer, We went to bed rather early.

May 1 - Biking Duins to Castricum

Thursday
We had breakfast at 8:30, and were joined by two other bicycling couples, both from Holland. They were planning to tour the Keukenhof Gardens later in the day. All entered into a very stimulating conversation about the changes in culture, human nature, etc. Very warm and friendly.



We didn't leave Joke and Ed's home until about 11 a.m. Verle was putting the journal and pictures on our web page and I took a nap, hoping to feel better by the time we left. It did help, and we began a lovely ride through the town and countryside. It was easy riding and I felt much better all day long. We rode through the sand dunes along the coast.



It is a national park. It seemed all the time like we were riding in circles. We were glad for our compass. We were going up and down sand hills, but it wasn't too difficult because the momentum from the downhill put us mostly up the uphills. This is Ascension Day in the Netherlands, and so it is another holiday that lasts through the weekend. Many Dutch people were walking, riding bikes, and driving. It started to rain while we were in the Dunes, and was rather cold. Then the sun would shine!



But see, we weren't the only ones checking our maps!!

The hardest part of the day was getting across the waterway. We had been told that there was a ferry in Ijmuiden, but we couldn't find it. Then a man told us to keep crossing bridges and we would get across. This worked, but it never did feel right, because we were in a big shipping area.
We continued on our way through a nice forest, and from there we reached our host's home in Castricum. It was supposed to be a 35 mile trip, but it may have been more when you count the extra miles we rode because of losing our way. However, we got to Castricum before 5, so we went to the Grand Cafe and split an Indonesian pork dish and a scrumptious ice cream/cookie dessert.



By then our wet clothes had dried out.

Our hosts for the night are William and Hanukah van der Veer.



They showed us to an adjoining guest house. This is a farming community, They served us tea and were very interested in the USA, since we are their first guests from there. They wanted to know what we thought about President Bush. We answered carefully but honestly, knowing how most Europeans feel about him. We think that is due to the news they receive from our liberal press.
There is a washing machine in the guest house. I will wash clothes and hope that they get dry. Verle helped them learn how to get photos on their computer and how to send the photos by E-mail. We are glad that we can contribute something for them.

May 2 - Biking North Netherlands

Friday
Hanneke and Wm. like having their guests in a separate building, and it was nice for us, too. We had a bath, a middle room, and a bedroom/computer room. It was good not having to worry about bothering them if we got up in the night, coughed, etc.
Hanneke served us a lovely breakfast on the patio in the sun.



What a fun experience! I had to think of Virginia and how that was one of the things she would like to be able to do in her home some day. Hanneke brought a lovely breakfast of wonderful yogurt, boiled egg, the raisin buns we have enjoyed at almost every home, meat, cheese, orange juice and coffee.
We got all our clothes washed (everything is dark, so it took only one load) and hung them up to dry around the room. Most things were nicely dry when we got up. We put the ones that were still damp on the furnace registers, and they were O.K for packing by the time we left.
Hanneke and Wm.'s home is the first free-standing home such as is so common in the USA.



The rest of the homes we have stayed in consisted of a few rooms on each floor (about 4 floors) with a winding staircase. These homes are hooked to a row of similar homes with a front that is often historic.
Hanneke and Wm. live in this home with a steep roof. Besides the guest home, they also have a shed, another building or two, a large bird aviary with about 22 birds, a pond and lovely flowers and greenery, a small lawn, and a patio or two. Wm. has a rain forest on the third floor with exotic frogs -- blue and bright yellow/black, etc. The forest rains automatically each morning and is warm at a constant temperature.
Wm. printed out maps in color for us for our route today and Hanneke drew our route on them. After that, Hanneke rode her bike with us to the edge of town (like Franz had done) so we wouldn't get lost. She was our tour guide during that ride. She pointed out the unique system of hay barns common there. The roof comes down on the hay as the hay is used up through the winter. A later couple told us that these places are common places where young kids go to smooch!
Castricum is a lovely Dutch town where Wm. and Hanneke intentionally chose to live. Hanneke pointed out thatched roofs on houses. We saw many more of them, especially on really nice houses, as we rode along. Hanneke says that they need to be replaced every ten years and are very expensive. They put the thatching right over the tile roofs for protection. The thatched roofs require expensive fire insurance, because a spark can easily ignite the whole roof and house. The roofs in this area are very steep and most homes have a small attic on the top floor. Wm. has his computer up a ladder in this attic area.
We stopped at Hortus Bulborum in Limmon just north of Castricum, that Hanneke had suggested. There were LOVELY tulips there. I inquired about sending some bulbs home to the girls, but the 2009 bulbs are still in the ground and won't be available until August. I inquired about prices. These are historic bulbs and very expensive. It appeared that a sampler of these historic bulbs, I think 50, cost about $1600 Euros. The tulips in the park were gorgeous and large.
It was a beautiful sunny but chilly day -- no rain, and the countryside is a farming area that was so very interesting and lovely. We rode through Limmon and stopped to talk to two men working in their tulip fields. They were spraying stray bulbs (tulips of other colors that the given patch). They think it will kill the bulbs, so that the bulbs will all be the same color. They explained that the tulips head are cut off to prevent disease or to keep the bulbs from rotting. This needs to be done when the tulips are in full bloom. Daffodils and hyacinths do not need this treatment. We rode through many more glorious fields of tulips today than we saw in the Keukenoff area. The whole day was a beautiful ride. Although some tulip blooms have been cut off already, more remain untouched in the fields than we found further south.




We rode past some estates that were truly beautiful. Flowers abound in home gardens everywhere and the tulips are especially gorgeous. Some of the daffodil fields are still in full bloom. Most of those farther south were finished except for a few varieties.
With Hanneke's maps and directions, we got lost much less often today. We stopped to ask advice from a man on the street at one point. He said that Den Helder was so far that we shouldn't ride through the Duins as Hanneke had suggested. Since we had done that yesterday. Since we had ridden the dunes yesterday and they are a lot of around and around and up and down, we gladly abandoned that part of our route, and instead followed our maps and the list of towns I had made from the maps in our room last night. This worked well for us except for one big problem. (We seem to have to have at least one each day!) We followed the signs and pulled onto a highway with no bike paths. As we rode along, all the cars were honking at us. We realized that we would have to cross the road and push our bike along in the ditch of tall grass back to where we had made our mistake. I wasn't feeling very strong, and it was more than I could do to push my bike in the grass with the heavy pack on the back. For the rest of the 8 -10 k of our ride, I was shaky and afraid that I would fall over on my bike again.

We were able to successfully complete our ride for the day, and after some difficulty, we found the home of our most gracious hosts, Lynn and Bill, in Julianadorp.



They have such a lovely home and guest area. We enjoyed tea and chocolate and a chat with them, and then I went up to bed and slept for a few hours before writing this journal. I had a fever and felt so shaky and cold. Lynn phoned for our hosts tomorrow night at Den Burg on Texel. She told us about a flower show in an adjoining town. We will ride our bikes there and to Den Helder and Texel tomorrow. Lynn and Bill have done a lot of bike riding all over Holland. They spent time at a winter home of a brother in Orlando with the snowbirds this winter. The brother lives in Toronto the rest of the time, and they have visited there, also.

May 3 - Biking to Texel

Saturday
My fever broke and I sweat a lot early this morning. I took medicine and Lynn led us out of town to the ferry across a canal that took us to the flower "show" at Anna Paulowna. The town is so pretty with tulips and other flowers blooming in every yard. Everyone seemed to be out on a holiday. In some places there were pictures that looked like photographs all made from flowers. In other places there were ropes of flowers decorating bridges across the canal and in yards. It was a lovely lazy ride.
We rode toward Den Helder and the ferry to the island of Texel. We had to wait a half hour for the ferry, and the ferry ride took almost a half hour. We reached the island of Texel and biked toward our hosts' home. We stopped many times and rested. We rode into Den Burg and found our host's home at about 3 p.m. Our hosts here are Trudy and Cor. They served us tea and we visited awhile. Their home and garden/yard -- like most of the homes we've stayed in -- are so lovely. I slept and rested and am feeling better.
Verle paid about 5 Euros for a 24 hour Internet connection and we talked to Dave and Bruce and Regina on the Internet connection by phone. It was wonderful to talk to them, We are enjoying our vacation so much, but we also miss our family and friends!

May 4 - Texel to Middleburg to Amsterdam

Sunday
Trudy served us a very special fruit bowl for breakfast because of my being sick. I couldn't eat too much else.
We left Den Burg and biked back to the ferry going back to Den Helder. We got there just as the ferry was loading. We biked to the railroad station in Den Helder. It was just as we remembered it from 2001. We got information about the train to Middleburg, where we have to return our bikes today. We had to wait for Amsterdam to get information about the train to Munich. We don't need reservations for this ICE train.
It was hard to get to Middleburg. It is out on the corner of Holland, and across several dikes that don't have trains on them. We were worried that the bike station might not be open, but it was. We had a bit of a communication problem, with the bike guy thinking we wanted the bikes for another week and not wanting to give us back our deposit, but we got it straightened out.
We trained back to Amsterdam planning to go to Enkuesin and the open air museum there, and our hosts in that town. However, I was getting very sick -- disoriented and couldn't walk straight. We decided that we had to find a place to stay in Amsterdam. The only lodging we could find was at the Sheridan Hotel at the airport train station. It was very expensive, but I could lay down and sleep. Verle was pretty concerned about me. We feel bad that we couldn't let our hosts know our change of plans.

May 5 - Amsterdam to Munich

Monday
By 4 a.m. Peggy had a very high fever. Verle tried to get a thermometer from the Sheraton help desk. They had nothing, but suggested going to the first aid station (open 24 hours) in the train station. No help there either, so we gave up on that idea. Peggy was able to sleep, but breathing was rough and uneven. We thought that with more rest she might feel better. We must meet our flight from Munich to Tel Aviv by Tuesday at 5:00 p.m.
Peggy slept very hard till about 9:00 a.m., but was very slow upon awakening. She managed to shower and dress, and we went back to Amsterdam Central to catch our train to Munich. Unfortunately, we missed the first train (our printout gave the wrong platform) and had to wait two hours for the next train. Peggy began to feel quite a lot better, but kept falling asleep.
We had to change trains in Dusseldorf, and then trained all the way to Munich. This surely is a comfortable way to travel. We arrived in Munich about 8:30 p.m., Peggy very tired,, and found the information office closed (where we usually find lodging directions when traveling without reservations). Fortunately, as we were standing in front of that office a lady came up and offered us a small room in her home. We had read that many times the local folks will be watching for travelers like us and will just be waiting for an opportunity to offer their room. We accepted and she led us via the metro to her place. I went right to sleep, but for some reason Peggy laid awake for several hours before finally getting to sleep. She then slept quite well till about 10:00 a.m.

May 6 - Munich to Tel Aviv

Tuesday
Our task for the day was pretty simple, just get to the Munich Airport in plenty of time to get through the more rigid Israeli security. So we showered, packed up and took the metro back to the main railway station (here called HauptBahnHof). We managed to take a train going the wrong direction, had to get off and retrace our path (not unusual for us)! We arrived at the airline terminal way ahead of time, and sat around for about four hours till our flight left, right on time at 8:00 p.m.



Peggy is still feeling very tired, chilling frequently, and cannot eat and keep anything down.
The flight was smooth, they provided a wonderful meal, but Peggy couldn't eat without becoming very nauseous. I pigged out, eating both meals (quite considerate, don't you think, with her feeling so bad)?
We arrived in Tel Aviv about midnight, and easily found a hotel with the help of the information desk. Took a taxi to the hotel, checked in and got to bed about 2:00 a.m. Peggy still very weak, coughing a lot. Probably going to a doctor in the morning. We don't meet the tour group till 7:00 Wednesday.

May 7 - Hospital to Natanya, Israel

Wednesday
We slept reasonably well, and awoke at 8:00. Peggy says it's definitely time to go to a doctor. The hotel suggested the hospital, which means emergency room. We took a taxi to the hospital, got Peggy admitted and they did the usual checks, a really quick EKG, blood work, listened to her chest and wanted to do a chest X-ray. Then we waited about 2 hours, Peggy was able to sleep in a hospital bed in the emergency area. I was able to be with her all the time. Finally a doctor came, was understandably concerned about her high white blood count. He says she definitely has pneumonia, her immune system is probably weak because of the CLL, and will give her a strong antibiotic. She is not to do any extended walking for the next three days. She should not be contagious to the other folks on our tour, so we will plan to join them and be sure Peggy doesn't do any great amount of activity.
The admissions desk called a taxi for us and we are now at the Blue Bay hotel, waiting to meet the tour group and a welcome dinner tonight.



It's a beautiful spot, west of Tel Aviv, right on the beach. Peg as been sleeping soundly since we got here about 3:00 p.m.
The hotel provided us with a wonderful buffet dinner, and thankfully Peggy was able to enjoy a little of it. She seems to be feeling much better, with some of her spark and joy of life returning. It's too bad we didn't get to the doctor earlier. Perhaps we have a little too much faith in our ability to tough things through.
During dinner we met a couple from New Jersey who has family in Greece. When they heard of our plans to visit there after we leave Israel, they gave us lots of ideas about how we should spend our time there. I'm sure we will spend some more time with them on the tour to help our future plans. We will have a wake up call at 6:00 with buses on the way by 8:00.

May 8 - Israel Tour - Day 1

Thursday

This was the first actual day of viewing the Holy Land, and if had been the only day, it still would have been worth it! Many, many things surprised us!
Israel, at least the part we were in all day, truly is a land flowing with milk and honey. We had expected dryness. Someone heard that this area could supply the whole world with fruit and vegetables.




Food: So tasty, but also different. Many exciting flavorings are used. The are a LOT of fresh vegetables at every meal (Yum, Tom!) Also many meats and good desserts. Some thought we were served pork, among other things.
Our guide, Schmulik, speaks EXCELLENT English and is very entertaining. He fills in with many, many illustrations, explanations, and information we’ve never heard before.



The Pilgrim Tour company has arranged a wholly Biblical, faith building, meaningful itinerary and information. We definitely chose a great tour. Our guide is a Messianic Jew, as is the spiritual leader, an older man, who used to work with Promise Keepers.
We knew we’d see a lot of Biblical towns, but almost everything we saw today were mountains, waters, etc. that are familiar to us from our Bible reading.
At least in his later years, Herod truly was the mean lunatic we know him to have been. What we don’t realize is what a genius and builder he was. Our guide says that he died the same year Jesus was born. By that time he was killing anyone who stood in his way -- not just the babies, but wives, sons, mother - in law -- anyone. Our guide calls the magi the unwise men. There was nothing more stupid for them to have done than to go to Herod to search for a newborn king!

Caesurae, built by the Herod of Jesus’ time, is well excavated. We saw the aqueducts,



and the oldest excavated hippodrome and theater. (If a hippodrome is closed in, it’s called an amphitheater. Herod loved his privacy, so he built his home way out into the sea. It was opulent. He even figured out a system of containers filled with lava rocks just below the sea surface. But more important is to realize that it is in the Greek/Herod city, the Biblical account explains how God moved highly Jewish Peter to evangelize the Gentiles. The account, repeated in its entirety so often in Scripture, has Peter on the roof of Simon, the Tanner (guide: probably on the roof because a tanner’s home was smelly). Peter is shown all unclean things and told to eat them - symbolizing God’s plan to use Peter to bring Christ to the Gentiles!

The bus stopped briefly at a rock with a tomb carved into it and the rock that rolls across the front.



To place the geography of Mt. Caramel, with the beautiful and productive Jezreel Valley, brings alive the encounter there between Elijah and King Ahab/Jezebel (guide pretended to misspeak and say “Hillary!”) when God brought down fire to burn Elijah’s sacrifice. Ahab’s Baal priests could not do it. Again, the important thing is not just an amazing story, but the fact that God works his plan in history, using willing, though defective, tools to accomplish his purposes. The really amazing thing about the story is the way a minor prophet humbly stood up to the mighty King Ahab, and the refrain, “Choose today which god you will serve, Baal or God!

I slept on the bus during the stop at Meggido, because the doctor told me not to walk far, and our guide said that this stop had many steps uphill and downhill.

Beit-Shean/Scythopolis (excavated) was the pristine example of excesses. It was the only city of the Decapolis on the west side of the Jordan River. The Decapolis cities were populated primarily by non-Jews. This one was a thoroughly Greek city with gods and a comfort and life style meant to impress. Our guide kept comparing their comforts compared to our "simple" lives (Palladius Street with covered sidewalks, sidewalks made of intricate, beautiful mosaics, elaborate latrines, the theater, ornate everything.) Saul and his son's bodies were displayed in this city after the Philistines defeated the Israelites here. King David later conquered the city. In 749 A.D., a severe earthquake devastated the city. This stop was difficult for many and getting very hot.

There were some changes in our itinerary today because of Israel’s national Independence Day -- 60 years dating back to 1948 when Ben Gurion declared Israel’s independence from Britain, which Britain was glad to grant.
We’ve learned a lot about Israel’s history today, told by our guide in a very understanding way. He really appreciates the wisdom of seasoned statesmen like Ben Gurion. Ariel Sharon (who remains a vegetable, with his sons by his bedside), and King Hussein of Jordan, and his son. He doesn’t appreciate the “pretty boys” put in power by the media, such as Israel’s present leader. Our guide’s information really leads us to a greater appreciation of the Jewish nation, and adds so much color to Biblical knowledge we already have!

I continued to feel better throughout the day, although I remain weak and easily tired. How fortunate I am to have gone to the hospital yesterday!.

May 9 - Northern Israel

Friday Guide: Schmulik Bus Driver: Roni (long o)
What a day! I don’t think anything in the rest of the tour could possibly top this! Schmulik called this the “second day of Bible Boot Camp.” It would be wonderful if every Christian could take a trip of this type to the Holy Land sometime in their lifetime. The Bible stories come alive, and the point of each sinks into our hearts as we walk where Jesus walked! Thank, thanks, thanks, to all of our family and friends who had a part in sending us here!!!
Schmulik gave us a new understanding of Jesus’ beatitudes as we visited the mount where Jesus preached.



Schmulik had us imagine that each of the thousands of banana trees on the hill were people and that Jesus was at the bottom talking to them. The acoustics are great here. The words about peacemakers and blessings for being oppressed and meek were given near Capernaum where a large group of people were insurrectionists whose one aim in life was to overthrow the Romans. They were looking for a military messiah to deliver them from the Romans. When Jesus healed and did other miracles in this area and then told them to tell no one, it was basically to keep them from misunderstanding his message and purpose. These insurrectionists in 60-70 A.D. were the reason for the great destruction of the Jewish nation and finally of Jerusalem as the Roman army under Titus and others moved to put down their rebellion.



An old Catholic domed building stands on the mount. Schmulik explained that Arab mosques are patterned after this building, which was built before the Islam faith even began. Schmulik also pointed out that at all our holy places, the Arabs think of someone to bury there or something, so they can call the area their own holy place.
An 110 acre area north of the Sea of Galilee, the Tel Nature Preserve, has been designated as a lowlands protected area because of the many kinds of wildlife living there, particularly the pelicans who migrate through here from Africa, and the flamingos, who also migrate through here. The government and the farmers are working together to give protection.
Adjacent to this area is the excavation area of the ancient city of Laish 1800 B.C./later called Dan and the dense foliage among the three rivers that form the headwaters of the Jordan river. This beautiful area was abandoned for the 19 years Syria controlled the Golan Heights. No one could work there, because the Syrians were shooting down on anyone and on the homes in the area for all that time. It's a good thing theArabs didn't have full control of this area, or their goats would have denuded it!
After Israel recaptured the Golan Heights, the beautiful area was developed again.



We walked through some rather tough, wet rocks through streams -- a beautiful peaceful area filled with the chirping of many birds. The totally pagan Dan is the setting for Christ’s question to Peter, “Who do you say that I am?” Among many other paganisms, Dan had set up a golden calf and inducted the Levites to serve as priests to this worship “in the name of the living God.” How often do I do something “in God’s name” which may be my thing rather than His? This paganism directly led to the North Kingdom’s being led into captivity. Only an aluminum frame is on this spot where King Jereboam erected a Golden calf and erected a building to house the sacrificial high places. Historical groups will not allow full restoration of a pagan image. The most interesting ruins in this area were the very early gates of the city of Laish 1800 B.C. built of mud bricks to avoid damage by earthquakes. Archaeologists were amazed to find arches in these gates. It had earlier been thought that the Romans invented the arch! These gates were built in the 18th century B.C. A bench used by the elders of the city is clearly preserved.
Dan’s gates and their meeting places were interesting, because so many Bible accounts refer to happenings at the city gates (such as Boaz dealing for the hand of Ruth.)
At Tel Dan, archeologists have found a fossilized tabvlet from the second half of the ninth century B.C. It contains an inscriptionm of Hazael, King of Damascus, boasting of his victory over the kind of Israel and the House of David. Finding the words "House of David" outside of Scripture is very important.
Jewish weddings are still held on Tuesday, because in the creation account for the third day, God twice says, “It is good.” This puts a double blessing on the Tuesday marriage, which is the probable date of the wedding at Cana.
The excavations at Capernaum were the most exciting of the day, because they are quite sure they have found Peter’s (mother-in-law’s) home, where Jesus lived while in the Capernaum area. Standing there imagining Jesus and the disciples interacting at that spot was breathtaking. The Capernaum synagogue is almost next door, and although the ruins are not on the one Jesus preached from, they are on the spot of “his” synagogue. Everything in Jesus’ day in Capernaum was made of the plentiful basalt rock of the area -- this is volcanic and active earthquake area along the fault line that runs through here down to the Dead Sea and on through Africa.
Excavated farm tools, including a mill stone and hand grinding tools, were displayed here.
An ancient Fisherman Boat from the first century A.D. was on display at an operating Kibbutz beside the Sea of Galilee. This is like one that Jesus could have used, and is titled “The Jesus Boat.” After viewing it, we took an absolutely marvelous ride on the Sea of Galilee.



All of us had tears in our eyes as the boat captain hoisted the USA flag, and we all stood and sang our national anthem with a tape he played. Halfway through, we hooked up with another similar boat and had a time of devotions and singing, led by Dr. Shore. Wow!
Schmulik told us not to use the Sabbath elevator (we’re on the 6th floor), because it is set to stop at every floor so that Orthodox Jews don’t have to work by pushing the button they need to make the elevator stop at their floor!!! He says they are not supposed to use electrical powered things, etc. But if they are walking by the elevator and the doors just happened to be open, and they walked in, and it just happened to stop on the right floor, that’s OK!
Peggy continued to show improvement througout the day, and was able to eat a good meal this evening.

May 10 - Jordan River to Dead Sea


Saturday
This day was less intense because Israel's Sabbath affects some scheduling options. Our first stop was at the Jordan River where some of the group were baptized or reconfirmed their baptism. Betty, from Houston, said this was a lifelong dream for her.



We drove past the city of Cana but didn't stop, because the real site was across the valley. Nazareth is now a city, but at the time of Christ there were only 200 or so living in the small community, When Pilate wrote, "Jesus of Nazareth, King of the Jews," it was real sarcasm. Nazareth was a nothing town with a 6 year education system. Pilate was basically saying, "You want me to believe that such a person could be a rabbi and a Messiah!"
A typical Nazareth village has been re-created in the middle of the city near the original site, with characters, goats, olive trees, an olive press, a carpenter shop, and a typical home. This was interesting to visit. Most alluring for me was the little boy about 7 running around in his native clothes. He just represented the boy Jesus to me!



We spent a lot of time in the bus driving from Tiberius to Nazareth and from Nazareth to the Dead Sea, so today's notes will contain many pieces of information that Schmulik shared with us.
Sales tax in Israel is 15 ½ % for everything. If shoppers buy over $100 worth, they can fill out a form for a refund of their taxes on those purchases.
Schmulik has led many groups of Nigerians. He is impressed by the depth of their Christianity. The Nigerian government pays for 6000 Nigerians each year to come to visit Israel. Each Nigerian citizen is eligible to come to Israel once in their lifetime. In addition to all expenses, each is given $500 spending money.
When Sharon decided to withdraw from the Gaza strip, King Hussein didn't want the Arabs back. Schmulik says they are a stupid bunch of people who fight each other and can't pull together to better their lives. They currently have 6 different armies. You can't make an agreement with one, because even if they would uphold it, the others won't. They constantly fight with each other. He says that if you just put a big fence around the Arabs, they will kill each other off!. The Palestinians who live inside Israel under the Palestinian Authority, live peacefully and are bettering their lives.
The Druse are a group of peaceful people who originated in the Caucasian Mountain Region are strong warriors and good citizens. Their pattern is to declare loyalty to the region in which they live. However, those in the Golan Heights have declared loyalty to the Syrians, even though they love Israel. They are just afraid that Israel will give the Golan Heights back to Syria, and if the Druse had declared loyalty to Israel, Syria would kill every one of them.
The bus drove a long time toward the Dead Sea. It is so amazing how much of the land is fruit and olive and date trees and vegetable farms of many kinds. Irrigation methods are highly refined to not waste a drop of water. However, without much rainfall, crops all look lush. We followed the Israel/Jordan border for many miles along the double high fence to keep the Jordanians in. If one escapes, they track him down mercilessly.
The Dead Sea has been receding since 1917. 3 feet per year are drying up. At one point, the Sea had been well above the road and we stopped to see a sign that marks the spot. The Sea is now split into two halves. Sink holes have become a huge problem. Ways are being explored to bring some Red Sea water into the Dead Sea, but they don't want to disturb the chemical balance of the Dead Sea, which is a very important economic resource to Israel. The hills east of the Dead Sea in Moab (Jordan) are made of a material called "liss." The first drop of rain seals the ground, and minerals, salt, and sulfur enter the sea with each flashy flood.
Schmulik showed us an area in Moab across the Dead Sea waters, where Herod Antipas had a castle. This is where he beheaded John the Baptist.
Hot, dry Qumran was fascinating.



We could go down close to the mouth of Cave 4 where many scrolls were found. Excavations and information about the Essenes was at the site.
The most beautiful stop of the day was at En Gedi, where we could look across to a lovely, big cave area, which is very likely where David forced his men, who were hiding in the cave to spare Saul's life.



Schmulik is convinced that when Saul came in the relieve himself, he essentially came in to take a siesta. Otherwise, David and his men could not have discussed what action to take and cut off the hem of Saul's robe without knowing they were there. The site is beautiful with a waterfall coming down and a huge green area. I could have stayed there longer.
We reached the Moria Classic Hotel by the Dead Sea at about 7:30. I put my swimsuit on and played for a half hour in the Jacuzzi and water playground. It was so relaxing to let the water massage my body and feet.

May 11 - Dead Sea and Masada

Sunday
Another fascinating, yet relatively easy day! We worshiped with Rabbi Shor at the hotel. He emphasized the importance of the Jewish base to the New Testament events. He especially spoke about Abraham's meeting with Melchizidek (Jesus) and connected to Jesus' statement, "Before Abraham was, I am." The service closed with a sharing of bread and wine in an Old Testament setting.
We ate breakfast and I went down to float in the Dead Sea -- alone again. Verle is missing such wonderful experiences. I walked down to the sea and later took the shuttle back up. The Dead Sea water was beautiful and the aqua color of Lake Louise with a white crystal beach. The Dead Sea water is wonderful -- smooth and soft. It's nothing like the Great Salt Lake.
I continue to thank God for continued restoration of strength and less coughing and congestion.
We didn't leave until just before noon (as planned) so the morning was relaxing. Masada was the exciting site for the day. We rode a cable car up to the top.



Herod the Great built one of his mountain top fortresses here. Typical of Herod the Great, no detail was left unattended, and his personal privacy, safety, and opulent lifestyle were apparent everywhere.
Herod had left his family at the simple fortress at a time when he was in personal danger. By the time he went back for them, they were almost out of provisions. Herod decided that he needed a more efficient fortress, which he built before Christ's birth on an earlier fortress site. Herod built three levels of private pavilions looking out on the Dead Sea and surrounding area.





Herod obviously wasn't afraid of heights-it's about 1500 feet down to the valley floor!

He had long rows of food storehouses and crop land on the other end of the butte. He channeled the occasional flash floods into the many cisterns all around the mountain. Herod had every possible comfort built for his luxury -- a pool, cold, temperate, and a hot room were built with an elaborate system of clay tiles, a raised floor, parallel clay pipes lining the outer room, an inner room with an arched ceiling and frescoes and beautiful tiled floors. There is no evidence of any frequent use of this site by Herod and his family.
The final use of the Masada fortress was by the Jewish insurgents whose militancy made the Romans decide to finally end the Jewish question in Israel. The Romans wiped out Jewish cities one after another, with Titus leveling Jerusalem in 70 A.D., the destruction of Qumran in 71, En Gedi in 72-73 AD, and the final confrontation at Masada a couple of years later. The Romans used 11 months to build a wall and watch towers in the plains all the way around the fortress, so that no one could escape the final battle alive. The Romans built their encampment and then built a huge, long ramp for their battering ram to reach the walls of the fortress above.



When the final moment came, they breached the wall and retired for a good night's sleep. Knowing that the insurgents would be tortured, killed, made slaves, their wives and children raped and destroyed before them, with the best they could hope for was for a few of them to be paraded through the Roman Empire as an example of what happened to those who dared to stand up against Romans. I would like to see to see the movie, Masada. Josephus records Eleazar Ben-Yair's speech,
"Since we, long ago, my generous friends, resolved never to be servants to the Romans, nor to any other than to God himself, who alone is the true and just Lord of mankind, the time is now come that obliges us to make that resolution true in practice. And let us not at this time bring a reproach upon ourselves for self-contradiction, while we formerly would not undergo slavery, though it were then without danger, but must now, together with slavery, choose such punishments also as are intolerable; I mean this, upon the supposition that the Romans once reduce us under their power while we are alive. We were the very first that revolted from them, and we are the last that fight against them; and I cannot but esteem it as a favor that God had granted us, that it is still in our power to die bravely, and in a state of freedom, which hath not been the case of others, who were conquered unexpectedly. It is very plain that we shall be taken within a day's time, but it is still and eligible thing to die after a glorious manner, together with our dearest friends....
Let our wives die before they are abused, and our children before they have tasted slavery; and after we have slain them, let us bestow that glorious benefit upon one another mutually and preserve ourselves in freedom as an excellent funeral monument for us. But first let us destroy our money and the fortress by fire; for I am well assured that this will be a bitter blow to the Romans, that they shall not be able to seize upon our bodies, and shall fail to our wealth also; and let us spare nothing but our provisions, for they will be a testimonial when we are dead that we are not subdued for want of necessaries; but that, according to our original resolution, we have preferred death before slavery."

We spent an hour on the bus traveling from Masada to an area occupied by Bedouin tents a few miles east of Jerusalem. There, "Abraham" entertained us to a sumptuous meal in his tent. Following that, we each got a free camel ride. Wow! Fun!
Riding into Jerusalem was an emotional thing for me. I was replaying the song, "Jerusalem" in my head when our guide put the song on the bus audio system. I about fell apart! How exciting to be in this holy city where Christ was circumcised, came at age 12 and came many more time throughout his lifetime, was welcomed as a king -- and gave up his life and resurrected again.

May 12 - Jerusalem Tour

Monday

We started the day with a devotion and Old Testament bread/wine ceremony at the Mt. Of Olives overlooking the city of Jerusalem. Rev. Shor pointed out that the Bible uses the word "Jerusalem" 811 times. The Koran uses "Jerusalem" 0 times. Yet Islam attempts to create a "holy" place at every Christian/Jewish holy site.

Models of Solomon's Temple and the city around it as they appeared in Jesus' day were a great help for us in visualizing the meaning of the ruins that we saw each day in Jerusalem. A model city (1/5 size) of Jerusalem of Jesus' day was SO interesting.




Bits of Information:
When palm branches waved at Jesus' entry into city: palm branches were "code" for kicking out Romans.
Thorn bush near Caiphus place may have been the type used for crown of thorns.



Jesus called Pharisees "whitewashed tombs." Nice on outside only.
Many such tombs in area.



Koran: Abraham married Haggai. Ishmael is legitimate son. Sarah was slave. Isaac was illegitimate son. Insist that our version was "doctored."
UN headquarters in Israel and Caiphus' place built on "Hill of Evil Counsel"
Israel's 25' high wall dividing Arabs and Israelies in Jerusalem has stopped 90% of the suicide bombings. The world is angry because the wall stops Arabs needing Israel's services from receiving them.
Manasseh (Hezekiah's son) was Israel's worst king -- live child sacrifice to Molech.
Schmulik taught us about the "salesmen" who would surround us at each stop. He asked us not to deal with them until after his presentation, to just say one clear "no," and avoid eye contact, and to bargain for lower prices (by giving us a example of a Nigerian woman who just kept saying kept saying ($80).
I didn't go into the church of Peter's denial and missed the pit that has been unearthed underneath that is very likely where Jesus was held until morning when He could be taken to Caiphas.
The Garden of Gethsemane was so peaceful. I had wanted to touch one of the old olive trees that was here in Jesus' time, but there was a fence around the whole area. Schmulik says the current olive trees there are not 2000 years old anyway, but they sure look that old.



One lady reached underneath to try to retrieve a small stone from the garden. I'm sure this is why it is fenced.
Knesset - Jewish Parliament - where President Bush will visit this week. He also will go to the museum of the Dead Sea Scrolls.
Josephus says that each of the 162 columns in Herod's temple needed 3 men to reach around it.
The outer wall of Jerusalem wasn't there in Jesus' day. It was built by the rebels to attempt to defend Jerusalem before it fell to Titus in 67 A.D.
The poor of Jerusalem so heavily taxed that they rebelled rather than becoming slaves. They burned the archives to destroy the records of their debts.
Queen Hediate of Iraq built 4 palaces near the Temple.
Dead Sea Scrolls Museum - our visit was too hurried.
Holocaust Museum - so very well done. We'd like to spend more time there.
Children's Memorial - chilling



Schmulik gave us an overview of part of the history of Jerusalem:

1800 BC Abraham called to sacrifice Isaac on Mt. Moriah (Dome of the Rock)
1500 BC Moses brings the people back / Judges / Kings
1000 BC King at Hebron, then Jerusalem
(Mountains all around/not defensible /"Lord is my defense."
Solomon's temple on Mt. Moriah (First Temple Period)
586 BC Babylonian Captivity/Persian/Ezra 70 years
Solomon's Temple destroyed by Assyrians
516 BC Return from Captivity - Beginning of Second Temple Period
333 BC Alexander the Great, Beginning of Greek influence and worship
167 BC Antipas forbids circumcision, sacrifices pig on altar
2nd Century
B.C. Maccabees/Greeks out/Jews independent - Hasmoneans restore Israel to King David's boundaries. Local populations must convert to
Judaism or leave. Idumea family (Herod) "convert."
King and High Priest argue. Call in Roman general Pompey to mediate. 63 B.C. Pompey rules that neither may rule and that Rome should take over Herod hides family at Masada. Buddies up to Rome
37 B.C. Herod the Great proclaimed King of the Jews.
Collects taxes for own use.
Herod rebuilds and expands Jewish temple in Jerusalem and builds fortified palaces all over Israel including Caesarea, Massada, etc.
18 B.C Temple considered 8th wonder of ancient world.
4-6 B.C. Christ born (Herod dies 4 B.C.)
30 A.D. Christ crucified
37 A.D. Historian Josephus born (found to be very accurate)
67-70 A.D. Jewish rebellion / Titus destroys Jerusalem. 2nd temple period ends.
135 A.D. Bar Kochba revolt. Hadrian Caesar finishes off Jewish rebellion and defiles Jewish holy sites. Builds pagan temples on holy sites.
Calls land Palestine after the Philistines to humiliate Jews.
133 A.D Hadrian supresses a Jewish rebellion. He flattens /rebuilds Jerusalem as a Roman wn.
345 A.D. Constantine proclaims his empire Christian and his mother, Helena, travels to Israel to identify Christian sites and to build monuments at each.
7th CA.D. Mohammed starts Islam. Koran
Mohammed's followers conquer Palestine-influx of Arabs
638 A.D. Arabs annex Jerusalem
749 A.D. Earthquake destroys much of Jerusalem
1099-1290 Crusades - Rule by Salad Hudene
1453 Turks rule. Ottoman Empire
1917 British Mandate (50% Jews/50% Arabs)
1947 UN declares Israel independence. Arabs attack and Israel wins much Arab territory. Arabs harass and shoot at Israel from Golan Heights for 19 years.
1967 7 day Israel war - Israel takes Golan Heights. UN wants 1947 boundaries, but King Hussein doesn't want Arabs back, and Israel doesn't want Arabs shooting at them again.